Just 35 years ago this landscape was swiftly and cataclysmically changed. Mount Saint Helens erupted with a massive explosion of ash and steam. Last weekend we visited the mountain and were surrounded by one of the most serene silences I’ve experienced in a long time.

It’s incredibly rare that the Plains of Abraham nestled on the mountain’s shoulder at 4’000′ would be clear of snow in March but we heard rumors this was true. Mostly. The road to the trailhead was still gated so we cycled on the abandoned asphalt ribbon for a few miles before veering up the slopes of Ape Canyon. It’s a long climb, but a moderate grade and you’re frequently rewarded with views of the surrounding hills and neighboring cinder cones. And then wham: you pop out next to the bottomless slot casym of Ape Canyon and Mount Saint Helens erupts out of the trees in front of you. It’s an incredible landscape and you’re immediately swallowed by it. The pumice is soft and eroded, the trail meandering, and technically easy. Which is a good thing, since it’s nearly impossible to tear your eyes away from the surreal landscape painted all around you.

We eventually hit snow before getting to Windy Ridge, but were happy to eat our sandwiches and drink our hopworks IPA in silent awe before turning around and gleefully descending back to our van.